Fall & Winter Skin Care

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While walking through Bed Bath & Beyond and hearing Christmas music yesterday it struck me that Fall is in the air everywhere but Los Angeles. It was here for about a week, but with the temperature spiking to 90 again today I have to wonder. Regardless, that obscene, too early, holiday music reminded me that Fall is here and it’s time to talk about the changes your skin needs to for the winter months ahead.

The weather is a major factor in what your skin needs and doesn’t, so it’s no wonder that as the air gets cooler and drier that you will need to boost with additional hydration. But what a lot of people don’t realize is that more hydration isn’t the only thing you need. You need a different sort of protection as well. In the Summer and Spring your main protection is from the sun. In the Fall and Winter you need protection from wind and cold as well. You NEVER put away the sunscreen, but just as you add a few more layers of clothing for the colder seasons so too do you add a few more layers to your skin care routine.

Basic Skin Care 101 states that all anyone really needs is a cleanser, a pH balancer (a.k.a Equalizer, Spritz, Spray, or for an out dated term “Toner”), a moisturizer, and a sunscreen. Of course there are TONS of specialty items, but I am just going to focus on the basics. As the cooler/harsher months come into play you will need to change up your routine so that you can battle the electric heaters and variable weather. This means taking a serious look at your cleanser and moisturizer. Usually your skin balancer can stay the same. If you use an SPF for your daytime moisturizer consider taking on an additional moisturizer under it.

If you are oily/combination then you want to be sure you are on a gentle cleanser. This doesn’t mean it has to be creamy, but it can’t be stripping. Every skin care line has at least one cleanser that meets this requirement. It is usually a soft, mildly foaming cleanser. My personal favorite is Bioelements Sensitive Skin Cleanser It won’t necessarily leave your skin feeling squeeky clean, but trust me it’s better without the squeek this time of year. What it will do is clean it and leave it perfectly balanced and protected.

For a moisturizer you want to be sure you are using something with enough water hydration to keep you moist all day long. This feeling is often described as “sticky” or “tacky”. Neither seem flattering, but try feeling a baby’s skin. See how it has a little moisture to it? A bit of a stick? That’s all you are looking for. You don’t want to be gummy, just moist. It’s a fine line, I know. I find that most people don’t know the meaning of real moist skin anymore, but once you begin to experience it you will see the light. The type of moisturizer you are looking for is usually housed in a gel, but can also be in a very light cream base. You should NEVER feel tight or itchy. If you do you need something with more moisture. Often I move my clients from a gel based moisturizer to a cream.

If you are dry/mature then something with oil is going to be necessary. Your cleanser can probably stay the same, but you need to seriously up your daily moisturizer. You will probably need a special night cream as well that has a lot more oomph to it. I know we live in a world where “oil-free” is the answer, but this is all bogus nonsense. Oil isn’t the devil. Bad oil is. Be sure you are using good products and the oil that’s in them won’t clog or sit on the skin. Dry/Mature clients NEED oil as well as water hydration. What they don’t need is mineral oils and lanolin’s. Stick to essential oil enriched products or jojoba, olive oil, and grape seed oil. For night time use get something heavier than day time use since you can wash off any remnants in the morning.

Dehydrated/Acneic/”Oil Slick” skin. I put all these together because they always seem to go hand in hand. I have an entire article in the making about dehydration and H20, but you will all have to wait for that one (Update! Here’s that article: H20 SOS). The number one thing I preach to clients is that if you have oily skin you are probably dehydrated. If you have acne you are probably dehydrated. Dehydration is the number one cause of skin problems and it comes mainly from improper skin care. Period. The best thing I can tell this skin type is to seek out professional assistance. Really. Only a professional can discover what type of skin you really have and then help you take care of it.

Acne. Well you are kind of the hardest. You can’t really change your routine too much because it is catered to keeping acne at bay. What you can do is add an additional water hydrator. This is usually a gel based item. Be sure to check with a professional or your dermatologist. But always ask for it. I bet you need it. Acne patients are the number one patient I sell hydration too. All those products that help your acne don’t necessarily keep your skin hydrated.

I know that all this seems rather simple, but I think we often forget to change up our skin care with our wardrobe. As usual, any questions feel free to email me or post it as a comment below.

The Plague Strikes

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I am sick. Really sick. It almost never happens. Quite frankly, since I started taking Propolis on a daily basis I haven’t gotten sick in a year and a half. I can only chalk up this horrible illness to being lame enough to forget to add the stuff to my water bottle on Sunday. So here I am nastily ill two weeks before I go on vacation, working double shifts to fit all my clients in, and training. Can I just tell you all how bad this is?

You see, when I go on vacation it’s a little different than when most people go. Sure I have to work longer days to fit everyone in, but lots of people have to do this. No, what’s different about my vacations is that they always revolve around massive educational events. Events that I need to be fully functional to get the most out of.

Take for example this month. I have freaked out all my clients and employers (but I gave them all 3 months warning!) by requesting 19 days off. But all those days are for educational events. This should be a wonderous thing because I am only as good as my knowledge you know. And yet not as many people as you think understand it when I have to take that many days off in the same month. The thing is, I don’t plan when the trainings and educational events occur. I just make sure I can go to them, and shell out the cash for them. I have an Jane Iredale Master Class Makeup Training, a Bioelements Sensitive Skin and Microtreatment training, a Medical Esthetics Conference, a La Roche product knowledge and advanced medical facial seminar, an Epicuren product knowledge class, a Kobido Japanese facial workshop (which was just moved to January thank GOD), and two courses on new esthetic technology. So it’s not like I am slacking for 19 days!

But this damn plague has thrown me off my game. I have moved some clients around and have thanked each and every one who let me cancel on them. I even jumped for joy … well maybe it was more of a hop since I am feeling pretty crap … when Master Shogo called telling me they were moving my Japanese facial class to January. Nothing sucks more than having to learn while sick. I did okay in my Iredale class yesterday, but that is something I already know a lot about. The Japanese facial class is my first one on one training session. Damn do I need to kick this cold!

So as I type cocooned in a heating blanket, the smell of disinfectant floating around me (I have to smother myself and all my equipment in it between every facial so I don’t spread the plague), I pray the Day Quill will kick in before my next client arrives. I’m proud to have written this weeks entry considering how miserable I feel. Hopefully you can all find some deep hidden message in this post because while writing it I was just praying for clarity. 🙂

Getting Bare & Grooming “Down There”

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18d5ffc9-e755-4eff-aeec-5176dc57a175Everyone has hair, to some degree, in places we don’t really talk about. Nose hair, ear hair, butt hair, toe hair, leg hair, and genital hair. It’s all hair! We all know about the hair on our heads. You wash it, you get it styled, colored, trimmed, etc.… But what is it about genital grooming that is this huge taboo and mystery? I blame all the drama and misinformation on our parents for not taking us aside and telling us what to do with the hair “down there”.

There are a few different ways you can take care of unwanted hair “down there” or anywhere. You can shave, trim, yank, laser, electrolysis, or use a depilatory. Each has their pros and cons. Ultimately you must choose the best way for yourself.

Shaving

The least painful in the short term, but has many side effects that are quite painful in the long run like in-grown hairs, razor burn and lumps, and uncomfortable grow in. You also have to do it about every day. If you do decide that the razor is the best option for you, be sure to exfoliate (scrub) the area first, then use a really thick shaving cream or gel, and a clean, sharp razor. Afterwards be sure to apply a soothing lotion.

Yanking

Tweezing, hair removal devices like the “Epilady”, threading, and waxing fall into this category. By far my favorite method besides laser hair removal, yanking is excellent if done properly and consistently. Yes, any form of yanking hurts at first, but this method damages the hair, so as the hair gets thinner and weaker it gets less painful. Proper care like scrubbing every day and using a post-waxing lotion will make it easier and less painful too.

Depilatories (think Nair)

These are the worst things you can use. They are chemicals that eat away at the hair on the surface of the skin and work just like shaving does except without the razor. The chemicals may eat away the hair with little effort, but they are hard on the skin and very toxic – especially on delicate pubic areas.

Laser

Popular, nearly painless, and expensive. Your results depend on the quality of the lasers used and the skill of the technician preforming the treatment. A laser hones in on the pigment in the hair. This is why the best candidates are fair skinned people with dark hair. If you have darker skin the laser will also hone in on the pigment in your skin and may give you discolored spots. Most times they go away, but you will look a little strange. If you have blonde hair or very light hair you may not be able to use this method since you don’t have enough pigment for the laser to zap. Session prices vary, but you can be sure you will need 5-9 sessions. My recommendation is to do 6 months of waxing and then get laser done. Laser, like waxing, needs to catch the hair in the active growth stage to kill the hair (see waxing myths below for more details on this). Since you train your hair to be all on the same growth pattern when waxing, you will zap most of the hair in less sessions. This can save you a ton of money.

Electrolysis

This method is being replaced by the less painful laser method, but if you have fair hair or your skin is really dark this might be a better option. Basically electrolysis uses an electrical needle to go into each hair follicle and zap it. It’s time consuming and pretty uncomfortable. Multiple sessions are needed since the technician has to do each hair individually.

Trimming

This is often used in combination to any of the above methods of hair removal, but it can be used on it’s own. Essentially you want to use a nice, sharp, pair of scissors and trim the hair you don’t want.

Even with laser hair removal taking over, the most common form of hair removal down there is still waxing. And since I am a very skilled waxer this is what I am going to spend the rest of this article talking about.

Okay let’s start with debunking the basic myths about unwanted hair.

If I shave or wax my hair will get thicker.

FALSE! The hair may appear to get thicker or coarser because it’s now being blunted at the top of the skin as the razor chops it off. This is what makes it itchy and prickly as it grows in.

When you wax the hair is pulled out by the root. This damages the root so when the hair grows in it’s not only soft because it is growing back naturally, but over time the damage makes the hair finer, and sometimes stops it from growing back forever.

If I wax my hair will start growing more.

FALSE! If this were true we wouldn’t have bald men. All they would have to do is shave or wax their balding spots to grow more hair.

When you wax you are training all your hair to grow at the same time. Your hair grows in three phases, Anagen (active growth), Catagen (non growth phase), and Talagen (resting phase). This is why you aren’t bald one week a month. If all your hair grew at once and fell out at the same time we would have bald phases! This is bad for hair on our head, but good for places we don’t want hair. A good waxer will make sure you are on a 3-4 week wax schedule. This will ensure that all your hair moves onto the same phase of growth at the same time; forcing a bald phase. This means smooth skin for about 3 weeks and then ALL your hair will grow in at the same time. This makes it appear like you have more hair during the growth phase, but trust me you don’t. It’s just all on the same phase and growing in all at the same time.

Once I start waxing I will be perfectly smooth.

False! Above I spoke about the 3 phases of hair growth. Due to those phases it takes about 5 totally consistent waxes to get a perfectly smooth wax without any unwanted growth between wax sessions. So waxing before a cruise may not get you the results you want for the entire week. I can grab the hair that is showing, but I can’t get the hair that is just under the skin, too short, or hasn’t started to grow yet.

Waxing is great for special occasions.

False! The thing is, waxing is not a once in a while thing. If you are only waxing for a special occasion you are doing yourself an disservice. When you wax regularly the process gets easier and less painful. The first time will probably leave you red and a bit sensitive. Sporadic waxing doesn’t give a very good result either. You will get in between growth and may not be smooth for that special event. If you have a big event like a cruise or a wedding it’s smart to start waxing 6 months in advance.

All wax is the same.

FALSE! There are numerous waxes on the market as well as “sugar” waxes. In my opinion, and the opinion of many of the best waxers out there, a hard Brazilian wax is the best wax for the pubic area. Hard wax doesn’t stick to the skin so you don’t get as irritated, and that also means it isn’t sticky so it won’t stick vital parts of your anatomy to one another either! It takes a little longer sometimes since you have to wait for the wax to harden, but most people who have had this wax used on them agree it’s time well spent.

Now that we have that out of the way let’s talk about names. An excellent waxer will guide you to a shape that matches your needs and flatters your body shape. Just as hair has different styles to flatter, so does your pubic hair. But knowing the basic type of wax shape you are looking for is important. So here is a good guideline.

Full Brazilian or Playboy:
Everything gone from the front of the genitals and between the butt cheeks.
Traditional Brazilian:
A small strip of hair or “landing strip” on the labia’s that extends onto the mons a bit. Everything else gone from the genitals and between the butt cheeks.
Traditional Bikini:
If it sticks out of your underwear and is on the pubic area then I take it off. This doesn’t include inner thigh, belly’s, butts, or other body parts.
Bikini Plus:
Little to no hair left on the labia, but hair (usually a triangle) on the mons.
Thighs:
If you have hair on your thighs this is an add on.
Happy trails:
That trail of hair from your pubis to your belly button.

Having an excellent waxer is only half the battle. Taking care of your wax in between wax sessions and consistently seeing your waxer every 3-4 weeks is equally important. Here are some tips to keeping you and your waxer happy.

Consistency, consistency, consistency! Book ahead and book on the third week. I always do this because once the appointment exists it’s real in your mind. Also the 3rd week gives you the chance to move the appointment to the next week due to menstrual cycles and scheduling conflicts. Don’t pass the 4th week or you will throw off your growth pattern!

Exfoliation a.k.a. scrubbing. You can’t be a sissy or a slacker about this. You need something stronger than your average store bought loofah or puff sponge. I recommend the Cactus Cloth by Bioelements since it’s strong, sanitary, and will last a long time. And you need to be sure you use it every day in the shower. This will keep your in grown hairs in check and lead to a super smooth wax.

Post Wax Creams. I love In-Grow Gold and Epicuren’s Propolis Lotion. Both help reduce redness and inflammation while keeping the skin soft and hydrated. In Grow Gold is the best pick if you battle in grown hairs.

So there you have it. All of the things your mother should have told you, but didn’t about taking care of the hair “down there”. I am sure there are a million other things I could talk about in regards to grooming “down there”, but these are the most important ones. If you have any additional questions please add a comment or drop me an email and I will be sure to answer them!